Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Supercool 8a+

Yesterday I completed the Yorkshire limestone classic route 'Supercool 8a+'.
I know it is not high number for female anymore, but it was my hardest grade I have ever climbed so I am pretty happy climb this amazing route.

When I tried last year, I couldn't figure out crux moves. I was not strong enough to do this route.
During last winter I began to train properly at the depot that was my first time to do structured training. Some days, I would start training before the sun came up before work and again after work.
It definitely helped! I saw big improvement with my finger strength and stamina.
So, this summer it was time to test it out. Time to step it up! I wanted get back on the route to see what difference it had made.

I was lucky to find someone who wanted to climb this route at the same time.  Lucy is 19 but really strong and always has a positive attitude and spirit. I really enjoyed climbing with her. It doesn't matter any age, we both wanted to climb this routes. We are both pretty short so it was good to swap and share beta, that helped me a lot. Lucy did the route pretty quickly.It was great to see and gave me more motivation. I started feeling "I can do this route".

This summer has been really wet, luckily this route stayed dry, but with all the rock around being so   wet. I started to worry maybe not much time left to try. I had a great day on the route I got really close falling off last crux a few times. That night and next day I couldn't stop thinking about it. The moves kept going round in my head.

The next opportunity I had was a morning before work. I dragged my friend for belaying at 7:00am! The morning was chilly, cool breath flowing through the gorge and It was so quiet. Perfect! I was very motivated but same time a little nervous from the stress of redpoint pressure.
I did it second go finished by 10am. It was almost too perfect, I was not even late for work ;-)

Thanks to everyone for  all your support, this means a lot to me.
Arigato x
Tendon Master 8.9mm Rope : Supper skinny, great for redpoint .


Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Climbing Gear

My favourite gear

★ Boots: Climb X Rock Star
Lace up makes this shoes very precise and a secure fit.
Twisted, slightly down-turned last for edging and overhangs

★ Quickdraw: CAMP Orbit
Super light weight, no teeth easy to clip and clean.
Great for sport climbing.

★ Harness: Cassin Laser
Very comfortable and light weight.
Pre-Threaded Buckle on the waist makes it easy to take on and off.

★ Rope: Tendon Master 8.9mm
Super skinny single rope perfect for RP!

★   Belay Device: Trango Cinch
Smooth and easy paying out, much smaller than grigri easy handling for my small hands ;-)


Tuesday, 12 June 2012

Complete Control

I am happy I sent Complete Control (8a) yesterday at Kilnsey.

It was perfect conditions, cool breaths and very quiet. I really enjoyed all moves and felt very relaxed.When I reached the top I didn't feel that this was my limit. If compare my previouse projects this hasn't taken me a long time to complete. I feel much stronger than last year, defenitly all the winter hard training is paying off.

For now, no more long projects. I just want to climb and climb well in all styles of climbing, quick and efficent! I feel I 've just reached the starting level of climbing.
My climbing aim for this summer is to become a 'Better climber'!

fun swing after cleaning

Sunday, 1 April 2012

Back to traditional climbing !

Top of Half Dome- Yosemite
When I start climbing 10 years ago the first place I climbed was Canada rocky mountain.
I was traveling on my own for snowboarding in this area. At this time, I had an interested in climbing and met some local people at the gym. I was a totally beginner, but people were happy to take me out and teach me what it was all about.  The first time out on the rock I was hooked and I started get into climbing.
@ Squamish with gangs
I had the opportunity to spend summer in Squamish. The summer was a really special time and totally changed my life from busy city life in Tokyo. I met real lifestyle climbers out there from all over the world.  Camping under the Squamish chief with them, hanging out and climbing every day. I learnt so much from these friends. Even I was straggling to communicate in English at that time. This was how I started climbing.
After then I started to forcus mainly on sport climb and boulder. This style of climbing allowed me to push myself to my limit without too much of the danger associated with trad climbing.
In the past I used to dismiss trad climbing as being slow and felt I was unable really push myself. But now I can apply the strength and technical ability gained from sport climbing to the trad style. In the UK this opens up so many places you can go and so many experiences you can have.   For me, variety is the key to enjoyment!

Gorgarth Yellow Wall

Monday, 13 February 2012

Ticino Bouldering Trip

Cresciano & Chronico
It was my first time to visit Switzerland. I was so excited to climb Granet boulder,
because I didn't have much opportunity to climb outside this winter, and I was bored of gritstone bouldering.It was fun to climb different style of climbing , so nice to climb on real rock in the sun!

Hillary Step 7b/+ Cresciano