Sunday, 1 April 2012

Back to traditional climbing !



Top of Half Dome- Yosemite
When I start climbing 10 years ago the first place I climbed was Canada rocky mountain.
I was traveling on my own for snowboarding in this area. At this time, I had an interested in climbing and met some local people at the gym. I was a totally beginner, but people were happy to take me out and teach me what it was all about.  The first time out on the rock I was hooked and I started get into climbing.
@ Squamish with gangs
I had the opportunity to spend summer in Squamish. The summer was a really special time and totally changed my life from busy city life in Tokyo. I met real lifestyle climbers out there from all over the world.  Camping under the Squamish chief with them, hanging out and climbing every day. I learnt so much from these friends. Even I was straggling to communicate in English at that time. This was how I started climbing.
After then I started to forcus mainly on sport climb and boulder. This style of climbing allowed me to push myself to my limit without too much of the danger associated with trad climbing.
In the past I used to dismiss trad climbing as being slow and felt I was unable really push myself. But now I can apply the strength and technical ability gained from sport climbing to the trad style. In the UK this opens up so many places you can go and so many experiences you can have.   For me, variety is the key to enjoyment!

Gorgarth Yellow Wall
  
Gorgarth

Monday, 13 February 2012

Ticino Bouldering Trip

Cresciano & Chronico
It was my first time to visit Switzerland. I was so excited to climb Granet boulder,
because I didn't have much opportunity to climb outside this winter, and I was bored of gritstone bouldering.It was fun to climb different style of climbing , so nice to climb on real rock in the sun!


Hillary Step 7b/+ Cresciano


Thursday, 6 October 2011

Love Catalunya!


Flash try on La corva de la felicitat 7c (Margalef)


A one week Rock Trip doesn't sound enough, but I feel I have done lot's of climbing and had lot's of fun. We climbed for three days at Margalef, one day at Collagate, one rainy day at Terradets and one day at Camerasa. Catalunya has so much variety of rocks near each other. I think this is the best sport climbing area in the world.

My aim for this trip was to try on-sight/flash as much as possible rather than project/redpoint, so we decided to have no more than two goes on each route. I really enjoy the feeling of giving it your all when I try to climb on-site. Not knowing what is coming next trying hardest on your first go.


My high point on this trip was 1x7b 1x7b/+ on-sight, 1x7c/+ 2nd go. I am happy for it ♪


↑ Fun approach to Collegates crag


       ↑ Awesome steep climbing at Collagates (Per Tutti I'Ano 7b+)


Amazing tufa climbing ( Terradets)
After rain the sun came out, turned into boiling heat, sunbathing spot.
We had to have two hours siesta time.


Being in Spain always gives me such a great feeling. Blue sky and strong sunshine, smells of dried land spectacular landscapes. Always nice to meet friendly motivated climbers from all over the world!


Thursday, 25 August 2011

Pembroke Limestone!



This was our first trip to Pembroke and also the first time we've ever done any seacliff trad.
I think this is the best location for climbing in the UK, but it's not all about climbing with beautiful beaches
and great surfing there is always something to do.
Luckily we had nice sunny days while we were there. I really enjoyed this style climbing in the sunshine
( it was almost too hot to climb, but no complaining!) I will definitely come back and try bit more harder routes next time.


St Goven's

                                                          Classic route Pleasure Dome




Day 1, St Goven's  alll classics
Army Dreams(HVS)
The Arrow(E1)
Test Case(E3)
The Butcher(E2.5?)

Day 2, Stennis Head and Hanterman's Leap
Manzoku(E1)
Pleasure Dome(E3)★★★
Bloody Sunday(E4)★★★

Day 3,
Surfing

←Hanterman's Leap
Looking at Bloody Sunday




The Gear


●Helmet C.A.M.P. Armour Lady  

●Harness Cassin Laser Super


●Protections  Black Diamond Stopper, Camalot
                        Wild Country, Rock



Freshwater Beach

                                                                   






Sunday, 7 August 2011

My random weekend



Sat 12:oop.m trainging at the barn




Sat 8:00p.m learnig how to DJ










Sun 2:oopm climbing at Chee dale




enjoying non stop summer!



Sunday, 19 June 2011

Hebden Bridge Local day


We have a lots of local crags around Hebden Bridge. They may not the best crags in the world but it's great to have local rock.


Within 10-15 min drive we have Heptonstall, Mythlomsteeps, Widdop, Bridestones, Roost and many more!



Heptonstall traverse Good for stamina training





Path to the Roost crag walking thorough beautiful forest





The Roost





http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3138













Saturday, 4 June 2011

Finally.........

Finally I have ticked "The Bulge 8a".

This has been my longest ever project. I knew I could do it, but having falling off the final crux move (the very top) many times it became more a mental battle.
Always I had to stay positive each try getting mm's closer. I have learnt so much trying this route.Believe in yourself, you can do it, never give up and just keep trying! and " KIAI " spilit.

Yatta- Dekita.





This photo is from last year....