The Thumb 8a

The Thumb 8a


出産後初の8a (5.13b)を完登！

以前にトライしたときは出だしのムーブが出来なくて諦めていたルート。
あの時は登りまくっていて、強くてフィットしていた時なのに、今の出産後二年目にして
登れるなんて驚き。それも自己最短の6日間で。

色々な人がいってたけど、女性は子供を産んだ後ホルモンの関係で
強くなる！？確かに、この夏はよく身体が動いたなって思う。
それと、メンタル面でもっとリラックスしていたのが良かったのかな？
岩場にはいつも息子を連れていってたし、そこまでガツガツ登れないのと、
時間がない、というか100％自分時間を自分通りに行かない、息子に遮断されるのが分かってる分
一本一本を本気で登ったのが良い結果に繋がったと思う。

女だろうが、39才だろうが、2歳の息子がいようが、やろうと思うことは実現出来るんだなって。
身勝手な自己満足の為かもしれないけど、学んだことは大きいな。

息子には大分岩場に付き合わせてしまったけど、彼なりに楽しんでたし、良しとしようか。
小さな応援ありがと。ママ嬉しー！




完登後に息子ノアと。

2-10 March 2013

 CHULILLA

前々から気になっていた岩場。聞くところによると、80年代に盛上がってその後は静かに、そして最近また新しくルートが作られ、最近トポが更新された。岩は大好きな石灰岩。傾斜、スタイル、グレード（6a-8c）も色々とあり沢山オンサイトトライが出来そう！

とにかくこの時期はイギリスを離れ、太陽のなかで思いっきりクライミングを楽しむことが目的、と暫くは登れなくなるから。妊娠3ヶ月目で安定期とは言え落ちるのは心配。なのでリードで自信のある範囲7b+までのルートを選んだ。

              

      アプローチは簡単スパニッシュスタイル。岩壁がどこまでも、息をのむlandscape

面白かった得意系ルートLos Franceses (7b+) Flash 

クリーニングの後 massive swing with baby :-P

初日のwarming up に最適Area Muro de las lamentacianes

メインエリアの裏側にある日陰のMega Area' El Oasis'

7a-up がぞろっと。週末もあってヨーロッパ各地から来たクライマーで盛上がる。

Tufa が最高のルートDonos Colaterales (7b+) オンサイト:)

夜はになるとライトアップするビレッジ。なかなかの雰囲気。

宿泊したのは岩場の目の前のアパートメント　La Muela

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g1076376-d3356695-Reviews-Apartamentos_La_Muela-Chulilla_Valencia_Province_Valencian_Country.html

とても親切なオーナーで満足。

8日間でレスト1日、とにかく登りまくった。赤ちゃんが生まれて大きくなった時に

ママはこのルートをあなたと登ったんだよ、って言うの。

When my baby grows up I will tell him 'I climbed these routes with you'.

Giving my baby in some sunshine  

Supercool 8a+

Yesterday I completed the Yorkshire limestone classic route 'Supercool 8a+'.

I know it is not high number for female anymore, but it was my hardest grade I have ever climbed so I am pretty happy climb this amazing route.

When I tried last year, I couldn't figure out crux moves. I was not strong enough to do this route.
During last winter I began to train properly at the depot that was my first time to do structured training. Some days, I would start training before the sun came up before work and again after work.
It definitely helped! I saw big improvement with my finger strength and stamina.
So, this summer it was time to test it out. Time to step it up! I wanted get back on the route to see what difference it had made.

I was lucky to find someone who wanted to climb this route at the same time.  Lucy is 19 but really strong and always has a positive attitude and spirit. I really enjoyed climbing with her. It doesn't matter any age, we both wanted to climb this routes. We are both pretty short so it was good to swap and share beta, that helped me a lot. Lucy did the route pretty quickly.It was great to see and gave me more motivation. I started feeling "I can do this route".

This summer has been really wet, luckily this route stayed dry, but with all the rock around being so   wet. I started to worry maybe not much time left to try. I had a great day on the route I got really close falling off last crux a few times. That night and next day I couldn't stop thinking about it. The moves kept going round in my head.

The next opportunity I had was a morning before work. I dragged my friend for belaying at 7:00am! The morning was chilly, cool breath flowing through the gorge and It was so quiet. Perfect! I was very motivated but same time a little nervous from the stress of redpoint pressure.
I did it second go finished by 10am. It was almost too perfect, I was not even late for work ;-)

Thanks to everyone for  all your support, this means a lot to me.

Arigato x

 

Tendon Master 8.9mm Rope : Supper skinny, great for redpoint .

 

 

Climbing Gear

My favourite gear

★　Boots: Climb X Rock Star

Lace up makes this shoes very precise and a secure fit.

Twisted, slightly down-turned last for edging and overhangs

★　Quickdraw: CAMP Orbit

Super light weight, no teeth easy to clip and clean.

Great for sport climbing.

★　Harness: Cassin Laser

Very comfortable and light weight.

Pre-Threaded Buckle on the waist makes it easy to take on and off.

★　Rope: Tendon Master 8.9mm

Super skinny single rope perfect for RP!

★   Belay Device: Trango Cinch

Smooth and easy paying out, much smaller than grigri easy handling for my small hands ;-)


*TENDON ROPE AVAILABLE AT THE DEPOT SHOP

Complete Control

I am happy I sent Complete Control (8a) yesterday at Kilnsey.

It was perfect conditions, cool breaths and very quiet. I really enjoyed all moves and felt very relaxed.When I reached the top I didn't feel that this was my limit. If compare my previouse projects this hasn't taken me a long time to complete. I feel much stronger than last year, defenitly all the winter hard training is paying off.

For now, no more long projects. I just want to climb and climb well in all styles of climbing, quick and efficent! I feel I 've just reached the starting level of climbing.

My climbing aim for this summer is to become a 'Better climber'!

fun swing after cleaning

Back to traditional climbing !

Top of Half Dome- Yosemite

When I start climbing 10 years ago the first place I climbed was Canada rocky mountain.

I was traveling on my own for snowboarding in this area. At this time, I had an interested in climbing and met some local people at the gym. I was a totally beginner, but people were happy to take me out and teach me what it was all about.  The first time out on the rock I was hooked and I started get into climbing.

@ Squamish with gangs

I had the opportunity to spend summer in Squamish. The summer was a really special time and totally changed my life from busy city life in Tokyo. I met real lifestyle climbers out there from all over the world.  Camping under the Squamish chief with them, hanging out and climbing every day. I learnt so much from these friends. Even I was straggling to communicate in English at that time. This was how I started climbing.

After then I started to forcus mainly on sport climb and boulder. This style of climbing allowed me to push myself to my limit without too much of the danger associated with trad climbing.

In the past I used to dismiss trad climbing as being slow and felt I was unable really push myself. But now I can apply the strength and technical ability gained from sport climbing to the trad style. In the UK this opens up so many places you can go and so many experiences you can have.   For me, variety is the key to enjoyment!

Gorgarth Yellow Wall
  

Gorgarth

Ticino Bouldering Trip

Cresciano & Chronico

It was my first time to visit Switzerland. I was so excited to climb Granet boulder,
because I didn't have much opportunity to climb outside this winter, and I was bored of gritstone bouldering.It was fun to climb different style of climbing , so nice to climb on real rock in the sun!

Hillary Step 7b/+ Cresciano